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How to Enclose a Carport

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How to Enclose a Carport

by Allan Staines

Enclosing a carport provides an economical solution not only for garaging the newly acquired pride and joy, but for solving the never ending storage problem in most homes. This article shows you how to enclose a typical carport which has steel or wood posts.

Materials Required: Timber framing: 100mm x 38mm softwood or 75mm x 50mm HWD plates and studs; 75mm x 3.75mm galvanised bullet head nails or flat head for softwood; bolts for fixing timber end studs to steel posts; aluminium ant capping.

Where to Begin

Lay the aluminium ant capping to the perimeter edge of the floor, The wall framing can be pre-nailed or built insitu. Insitu is more suitable as old structures are not always square and straight. Lay the top and bottom plates together and mark on them the stud positions at 450mm centres. On carports with timber posts, the top and bottom plates then can be laid. For steel posts, bolt the adjoining studs to the posts after erecting the plates.

Studs are cut and installed keeping all the bows facing outwards. Skew nail to the plates with 2.75mm - 3.75mm nails each end. Where doors or windows occur, install the side jamb studs before all the remaining studs.

After nailing all the studs in place, position any window sill framing and lintels. Jack studs are installed next followed by the nogging.

Siding Materials Required: Planking; recommended fastenings; metal external corners; PVC joint trimmers to match the planks; Polyurethene (not silicone) for sealing gaps around joinery and abutting joints, if joinery is required (window and door). Reflective foil sarking if required. Prime paint for sawn cuts in siding.

Check that the face of framing is flush that the studs are nice and flush with the plates and noggs, and that jack studs are flush with the studs. Any sarking then can be attached. Allow an overlap of at least 100mm on the upper layer. Spring a chalk line around the perimeter to represent the top edge of the bottom plank. Follow the manufacturer’s specifications for installation for remaining siding.

A siding which slopes out from the studs to overlap theplanks below will require, for support, a batten of equal thickness to be laid through the lower edge of the first board.

Finishing Up

The final board at the top can be ripped to fit the last spacing. Alternatively all boards can have a slight increase in lap to enable using a full board at the top.

Use a measuring stick from the bottom edge of the first board to the top and mark off the adjusted board positions and transfer these marks to each corner stud. Manufacturers will provide installation instructions detailing window, door and flashing details. Don’t use silicone sealant when over-painting. Also avoid silicone which can be painted over within a limited number of hours.

(For a clearer understanding of timber wall framing, see the Australian House Building Manual, by Allan Staines)

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